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Pure fabrication

How my work at the shows influences my clientele

As a colourist I have always used visuals to create colour; for me it’s easier to choose the colour first from an object or material and then re-create it.

When I’m talking to clients about different depths, hues, levels of brightness and saturation, etc, it’s very easy for them to relate to the colour if I use a visual that’s not a hair strand. Five years ago I brought this theory into TIGI and their teaching approach to set colour trends.

As a brand TIGI has a fantastic relationship with fashion, particularly through all the designers that they collaborate with. As we work on their shows and do the hair tests, we can see the collections early on, which gives me a clear idea what colour schemes they are using in their collections. We collate this information and categorise the colours into shade families, such as blonde, reds, brunettes and black – and from there we can create colour mixtures.

We also cross-check this approach with Pantone trends to make sure we are taking on board all influences.

So it starts with a colour on a garment… and ends up with a hair colour formula for a client.

This is a very creative approach, but you can either break this down to very easy fundamental colour mixtures or go all-out and intermix different shades to create certain hues.

As an example, if there are a lot of orange hues in the garment you would asses what level the orange is and then what type of hue it is – a primary or a secondary tone.

So if it looks like a level 7 with primary and secondary hues you would create a 7/44 medium-blonde level with orange hues, primary and secondary tones.