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London Fashion Week Men’s AW18

Is there a better way to start a drab January than London Fashion Week Men’s? From kids’ TV show slime to National Lottery shine, we give you the lowdown on the looks from AW18

Liam Hodges 

Tina Outen for Fudge Professional 

The cheerful optimism of Satuday morning ‘90s television was the inspiration for Liam Hodges’ latest show – complete with “gunge”. Fudge Professional Hair Gum was used to saturate models’ hair so it looked wet, then the new Fudge Professional Vinyl Pomade was applied around the sides and front of long hair, to mould tendrils. Certain models were then “slimed” with green paste. Other models had their hair blow–dried backwards using a comb, then had widow’s peaks drawn in with pencil for a Talking Heads’ David Byrne silhouette. Crown areas were sprayed with Fudge Professional Hed Shine for a highly glossy, mirrored effect.

Charles Jeffrey 

John Vial for Revlon Professional 

Queer identity, the masks we wear and the battle to stay grounded – Charles Jeffrey’s AW18 show was an explosion of ideas based on both his Scottish heritage and his experience of growing up gay in a straight man’s world, where a loud exterior becomes a shield to stand behind. Hair lead John Vial was inspired by the brash style of Martin Degville, lead singer of ‘80s band Sigue Sigue Sputnik. “I have always said poverty fuels creativity,” John explained, “and he would make these really elaborate wigs out of fur because back then, you couldn’t buy cheap hair. Martin was bald and there was no way of pinning the creations onto his head, so he would stitch them onto fishnet tights and wear them over his face. That’s where the idea for the look was born.”

Models sported two distinct wig shapes: a bowl cut with a ‘70s feel, and a swirling mass of knotted hair tubes that looked more like a hat. The former required the hairpiece to be spritzed with Revlon Professional Double or Nothing Lisssaver, blow dried with a round brush, and pinned into place until it cooled and set. For caricature volume, John and the team used American Crew Tech Series Control Foam then backcombed and teased the bottom sections, before smoothing over the top of the style, placing it inside a hairnet and finishing with Revlon Professional Style Masters Hairspray Modular 2. The swirly hair was prefabricated and wrapped in hair nets or stuffed into fishnet tights, before being shaped into cylinders. These were then knotted and sewn together over a hairnet base.

Velsvoir

Louis Maharah for Toni&Guy 

The Velsvoir collection was the thinking man’s show – it turned its back on technology and instead looked towards an altogether more refined style in earthy colours. Hair was prepped with label.m Volume Mousse and blow-dried straight with the label.m cushion brush, then parted in the centre. A centre braid was created, with label.m Fashion Edition Wax Spray worked into the section, and the ends pulled into a high top knot. Another bun was created underneath, and the rest of the hair was left to flow, with a spray of label.m Texturising Volume Spray through the ends.

Blood Brother

Jan Przeymk for AOFM using R+Co

For AW18 Blood Brother, the National Lottery was the inspiration, exploring an Instant Win, Instant Lifestyle theme, and dreams of what you’d do with all that money. The hair story followed suit, with plenty of “flash” for your cash thanks to the high shine delivered by a generous dollop of R+Co gel (Motorcycle Flexible Gel or R+Co Wall St Strong Hold Gel, depending on the length of the model’s hair) and kept in place withR+Co Vicious Strong Hold. Each model was styled individually according to their cut, and hair was dried using a diffuser. We love this spin on a lottery win – it could be you…

Tonsure

Jonathan Soons and Gareth Williams for L’Oréal Professionnel

Individualism is still a key trend for 2018 and this came through at Tonsure with models hand-picked for their individual and diverse haircuts. Headmasters’ Jonathan Soons and Gareth Williams led the hair team for L’Oréal Professionnel and were tasked with keeping the hairstyles clean and minimal. There was a slight nod to the 80s with a few mullets springing up, created using Tecni.ART Scruff Me by L’Oréal Professionnel.

Jonathan adds: “The brief for the show was light references to the ’80s , from ska skinheads to Indie mullets, combined with minimal, clean, matte and modern textures to give the models some individuality in the line-up.”