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London Fashion Week Men’s A/W17

Anyone suffering from the January blues had them shaken off by the arrival of the newly renamed London Fashion Week Men’s (previously London Collections: Men). The capital showed the sharpest new looks, and the hair followed suit, with top stylists flexing their fashion muscles. We give you the lowdown on the styles that will inspire you and influence your clients.

Art School

Hair team led by Jonathan De Francesco for BaByliss PRO

Genders were broken down and reconstructed at this show, all with a touch of glamour – think rhinestones, manicures and a dose of androgyny. Former It List Visionary, Jonathan De Francesco, led the hair team to create what he described as a “sculpted, lady of the manor style with a heavily 1940s feel”.

“The clothes have no gender, and this feeling is carried over into the hair,” he explained. “Using a BaByliss PRO 13mm or 19mm tong, depending on the hair texture, I baked in curls, then brushed them out and set them. Nothing was too perfect, as it was all about individuals feeling comfortable in themselves.”

 

Katie Eary

Hair team led by Cyndia Harvey for Fudge Professional 

The bedhead look was taken to the next level at Katie Eary, with sleepy-eyed male models wearing silky kimonos and tousled 1970s hairstyles.

“Spritz Fudge Professional Push It Up Blow Dry Spray all over and blow dry it in, concentrating on the front of the hair to creative a seventies-style bend,” said 2015 It List Fashionista, Cyndia. “Then bandage down the front, leaving the crown loose to flatten and remove volume. Apply Fudge’s Professional Think Big Texture Spray to the crown and blow-dry, teasing the hair, and finish with Skyscraper Extra for hold”.

And the look wasn’t confined to the boys – ultra-glam girls walked too, with roughed-up beehives.

 

Per Gotesson

Hair team led by Tina Outen for Bumble and bumble

Partygoers from the Northern cities were the inspiration for this look, which saw day and night collide. These bad boys don’t have time to wash their hair, so they restyle on the go.

“Bb. Don’t Blow It (h)air Styler Bb. Don’t Blow It (h)air Styler is applied liberally onto the lengths of the hair and combed into a centre partying with a wide comb”, says Tina Outen. “Blow-dry product into the hair, using the comb to pull it into the centre parting. Hair should be completely dry and any signs of product should be left. Bb. Straight Blow Dry is applied to the lengths of hair and then dried off and finished with straighteners.”

 

Vivienne Westwood

Hair team led by James Pecis for KMS

The whole Ecotricity concept at this men’s/women’s show was based on what’s wrong is right! Pecis, a former Most Wanted Session Stylist winner, created looks that would “happen in a more natural, twisted way rather than how a hairdresser would create them with a refined eye. The looks are all asymmetrical and focus on the cut of the hair”.

KMS Hairplay Molding Paste was applied to the roots of the hair, while Addvolume Root and Body Lift was scrunched sporadically throughout the lengths to create a ‘stuck together’ effect. Pecis grabbed bunches of the hair, squeezed them into a ball and clipped in place, before popping a hairnet over and blowdrying. The heat set the hair and left the style with an irregular shape.

 

Belstaff

John Vial for Revlon Professional

Belstaff was flying the flag for British fashion with its naval inspired collection, Jolly Roger and the military style pieces were teamed with disheveled rockabilly hair. The gritty texture was created to look as if the models had spent the day in the salty sea air, captaining their ship.

Head of the Revlon Professional hair team, John Vial, moulded the hair by “drying against the grain to create the shape, then gently ruffling and loosening the hair to get an easy, lived in look”. The hero product was the new Revlon Professional UniqOne dry shampoo, which was key in building this rugged texture.