Creating shape

When deciding what to base your latest collection around, US-based stylist, Lindsey Olson (@Lindsey.Marie.Olson), reveals it doesn’t always need to be centred around a theme. Instead, look at how your images can be visually and aesthetically cohesive, such as through shape…

Photographer: Nico lliev
Hair: Lindsey Olson
Make-up: James Vincent
Wardrobe stylist: Miranda Cazin
Models: Fenton

When Redken artist, Lindsey Olson, started to think about creating a collection, she wanted a consistent thread – something that connected the images together – so she decided to base each look around textured shapes with control and precision.

The looks are based on classic hairdressing shapes with unexpected texture for a modern feel, positioning the shapes in the front and on top to catch the eye.

“Volume placement definitely varies depending on face shape. Focusing volume on the top and front defiantly elongates the looks. Going up instead of wide was actually the most flattering direction to work with,” explains Lindsey.

Here, she reveals how to work with shape while making sure it still compliments your model or client.

Complimenting face shape

  1. Kristina (redhead pictured above) had a very balanced face shape and strong jawline, so a very full and tall shape complimented her.
  2. Tamara (light brunette pictured above) had a wide jawline, so Lindsey focused on creating narrower volume (versus wider) on her forehead to balance the shape.
  3. Chantell (dark brunette pictured above) had a smaller and slightly round face, so Lindesy created an exaggerated slightly off-set shape with round characters, but kept the top slightly square to balance her round face.

Securing shapes

The foundation and preparation of the hair is key as it’s what makes it possible to create different shapes.  Lindsey first prepped hair with Redken guts 10, directionally blow-dried and then compressed it with a Sam Villa Textur Professional Texturizing Iron.

  1. Kristina had a form to build the shape on, so after hair was prepped, hair was wrapped in different directions around the form.
  2. Chantell started with an offset ponytail that was compressed and weft extensions were added and also compressed with an iron to make the ponytail even longer and larger.
  3. Tamara was similar to Chantell, except her ponytail was placed in the centre of her head.

Lindsey says: “I’ve learned that texturising hair before sculpting allows you to add an element of volume and control. I also really like using Redken Powder Grip 03 in conjunction with the Textur iron, because it aids in the moulding of the shapes.”

Photographing shapes

Lindsey’s top tips:

  1. Take a test shot while in the middle of working. Shapes read completely differently when viewed from other angles. Take time to look at what is actually happening instead of focusing so much on what you want to happen.
  2. Finishing is about letting the hair move and compliment the model’s face. It’s great to have an idea of what you want, but you also have to pay attention to the person sitting in the chair and their features.
  3. Communicate with the photographer leading up to the shoot. “I worked with Nico Iliev and he has so much talent and experience, he was able to direct the models and take the perfect shots. I would not have any of these images without him,” says Lindsey. “During the shoot, I continued to loosen pieces around each look, using my fingers to keep it natural and creating strong airy texture.”