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Crazy? I’m over you!

Is the thirst for rainbow hair fading? Whether you’re all for unicorn colours or think natural is better, we let the pros battle it out!
Whose side are you on?

Denis De Souza,
Joico celebrity hair colourist & spokesperson and co-owner of Mare salon in Los Angeles, on why he’ll never do crazy hair colour…

“In our industry, we are so fortunate that there’s no right or wrong and that everyone can have their own individual style. While I appreciate and admire all types of hair colour, I have my own individual style and make a considered stand to follow my creative and aesthetic instincts. My personal preference is for beautiful luxe locks; coloured to enhance the hair’s natural tones and compliment the client’s skin tone.

“When clients visit me, my aim is to keep their hair colour looking fabulous and as nature intended – with a little help from their favourite colourist. I believe a client’s hair colour is an extension of their make-up – it should blend and flow, not stop and start!

“I think creating colour that suits your client, rather than focusing solely on fashion-led shades, is key to maintaining a loyal client base. This doesn’t always result in more frequent repeat visits to the salon. My colour looks so natural that the regrowth is minimal and clients sometimes don’t need to come in again for up to six months. However, they are guaranteed clients as they know no one will be able to colour their hair as naturally and as well as me. By becoming an expert in this field, I am able to charge a premium for this service.

“This is particularly true when it comes to blondes. If you can create a natural-looking blonde for your client, they’ll love you forever. Of course, the key to creating great natural shades is to make sure the hair is in great condition – especially blondes. I recently worked on a campaign for Joico’s latest product range, Blonde Life, which lightens hair beautifully and the condition afterwards is fantastic. Condition and colour go hand in hand – there’s no point in colouring hair if at the end it looks dry.

“When it comes to creating natural colour, one of my favourite techniques is Sombré, which I created. It’s inspired by the beachy blondes in my home country of Brazil and my adopted home of Los Angeles. Sombré is every lazy girl’s dream and a very natural hair colour trend. Sombré, known also as ‘soft’ or ‘subtle ombré’, incorporates lighter shades in a more natural way. Instead of dramatic colours paired together, the base colour casually transitions into lighter shades by strategically placed highlights around the face, which cascade into heavy highlights at the ends. It’s a look some of my favourite hair colour clients love, such as Kate Mara, Mila Kunas and Lily Collins.”

Madeleine Murphy,
colour director of Ena in London and educator at Allilon, on why life is better in technicolour…

“One of my favourite things about the last few years is the emergence and popularity of colourful hair.

“I for one have always loved expressing myself through my hair colour as I feel it’s an extension of my personality, similar to how I choose to do my make-up or to dress. With the emergence of better colour products, clients are also now able to express themselves through their hair colour, which I can only see as a good thing.

“Before the rise in temporary hair colour products, clients couldn’t necessarily get what they wanted and would often feel that their expectations weren’t met or that the final colour was a watered down version of what they originally wanted. This left clients feeling unsatisfied.

“But as the quality in temporary hair colours improves, and the introduction of colour additives means hair that has been bleached is less damaged, clients can truly explore their more creative sides, picking and choosing shades they feel express who they are.

“Colourful hair has entered the mainstream and it’s a massive opportunity for salons to build a loyal client base and build on their colour business. My client base is hugely varied and I love how adventurous they can be. Our latest Allilon collection uses the idea of the spectrum, or a rainbow colours in hair, and so many of my everyday clients are asking for more of this for them too! I’ve built up so much more of a rapport with my colourful hair clients as I get to see them every four to six weeks, and this has made them more loyal to me. However, after care is vitally important and because of the trust built between my clients and me, they know that when I suggest take home products, I have their best interests at heart.

“I am sure we’re going to see the trend for colourful hair to continue for some time yet – it’s like clients have finally been given the tools to reveal their inner selves. I can see it becoming the next natural step in people’s routines, following make-up and how they dress. And we, the colourists, will be the ones they turn to.”